Thursday, July 14, 2011

Bilboa, Spain to Condom, France


View from hotel window in Bilbao
July 5
Lots of sandy beaches on Atlantic coast

Reluctantly, we left Bilboa and the Hotel Ripa which was situated on the river so we could see the parade of Giants from the hotel window and listen to waltz music coming the bandstand across the river.  We headed for the Costa Vasca or the Bay of Biscay.  My information was that the Atlantic Coast was just steep rocks all the way down to the ocean.  Bad Information!  We headed for Bermeo.  On the way we saw how high the city of Bilboa has gone.  They really needed the funicular.  Our hotel man recommended that we stop at Mundaka for a look at the beaches.  Incredible view from above.  Sandy flats with lots of people and kyacks on both sides of the inlet.  This inlet goes right down to and through Gurnika (that town looks healthy, has lots of parks and NO parking spaces). 

Beautiful bridge for such a small town

Mostly speed boats and fishermen
Protected harbor
The town of Elantxobe - steep with a great harbor.  We twisted and turned along the coast road to Lekeitio - great looking town with great looking beaches and tons of people.  Charlie and I missed the cave painting town of Kortezubi.



Seven story hi-rises are the most predictable housing in this part of Spain.  Closer to San Stebastian they were 11 stories.  Personally, I think that this would cause the desparation of the Basques.

The beach towns of Lekeitio, Ondarrao, Deba and Zumia are bright shiny towns with fishermen and a tourist trade.  Lots of Grandmas pas tending to little ones while sharing coffee at cafes.  Further up the coast or further on towards France, after San Sebastian the atmosphere of life was rougher and more dire, just plain industrial but as we turned away from the coast we came to a new type of beauty - the Pyrennes.  The industry here seemed to be brick laying and logging. 

I fully recommend the Spanish roads.  They have done an incredible job of keeping them up - even in the Basque region.

Liz would go wild  in this store
More of the shop in San Sabastian
I see that I just skipped San Sebastian. HopefulIly I have a photo for you.  To paraphrase Caesar, I came, I saw, I left.

July 6
Our basque pension
these 2 tin men were on or in a traffic circle on our way back into Pamploma on July 7th
through out the north we saw a number of this type of statues.Always very expressive
We stayed at Hostel Asador Ameztia in Donostia or Doneztebe.  They are part of an association to promote this corner of the Navarra.  They are working on hiking trails and promoting trout and salmon fishing. We found the people friendly and the food ordinary.  I tire of meat very quickly.  .

July 7
Pate for Doris  at les Pyrenees
Lapin for Charlie
A many chocolated plate
WOW, What a blaze!
ack to Pamplona to pick up Doris and head to Condom, But first we stopped at Arrambide restaurant in the Hotel les Pyrenees St. Jean-Pied-de-Port for Charlie's birthday lunch.  I am told that this restaurant has a Michelin star but I can't swear to that. Beautiful service and I am quite sure it is a lovely hotel. It is family run and has lots of flowers around their public rooms. 

Acres or hectars of sunflowers.  We better find a use for this oil
the offending bell tower< great view!
  We had a rollicking ride through southern France with a ten year old map.  But we achieved our goal (Condom), made around many roundabouts with few mishaps and two backseat drivers.  Hurray for Charlie. We found our accommodations, a quaint, little 13th century townhouse, on the river, on the main hay wagon road ( an all night throughfare) and across the river from a 10th century church where Quasimodo rang the bell every 15 minutes.  As veteran New York sleepers, we adjusted.

July 8
Condom has great flowers
Traffic circles in town!
Lazed around and visited with friends.  Had dinner in town.  Saw the museum of Armagnac.

Duck and Armagnac
July 9
Fruit list at jam stand
At Narac market, Fruit list at jam stand

pimentos stuffed with duck confit

Photo of drawing of cafe in Montreal
A fitting farewell, an amuse! 
Great set up for cooking at market
Went to Narac and visited a wonderful farmers' market and the size of the aisle (that's right, one aisle) reminded me of the McCarron Park Greenmarket.  Our next stop was a beautiful, round town.  It was so small you had to wonder how they made it a town.  Then we were off to Montreal to have lunch at one of Doris' favorite bar/restaurants.  The owners' cousins from Quebec (Canada's not France's) were visiting.  Great food, good feeling, enjoyable lunch and Charlie and I understood why this is one of Doris' favorites.  Tonight is our last night in France.  We will be with Tony, Val and Pat for the french version of tapas.  Au revoir for now.

No comments:

Post a Comment